For as long as we have records, Temple Bar has been at the heart of Dublin's cultural life. Its history is one of design, craft, publishing, the performing arts, coffee houses, political debate and great colour and energy. The world's favourite oratorio and chorus – 'Hallelujah' from Handel's Messiah – had its world premiere in Temple Bar in 1742 in Neals' Musick Hall, and a tradition of great musical vibrancy has continued there over time. Today, it is one of the central tourist areas of Dublin, and one of the most visited sets of streets on the island of Ireland. This is its history.

Dublin is alien territory for young and impoverished Egyptian academic Mutazz, who is preparing a PhD on Irish poet Seamus Heaney. Mutazz has enough problems with his family's high expectations and the unrequited, idealized love that he left behind in Cairo. Now he has to deal with cantankerous landlords, the inscrutable local women, the Irish judiciary, haunted seminaries, and cold winter nights selling flowers on the banks of the Liffey to make ends meet. His own personal demons travel with him, especially the clash between his sexual desires and his reluctance to become emotionally entangled with anyone other than his version of the ideal woman. In his year away from home Mutazz learns how diverse the world is, but returning to Cairo is a shock that tests his physical and mental strength. Only when he passes that test can he make a promising new start.