Big Wave Surfer

Big Wave Surfer
Title Big Wave Surfer PDF eBook
Author Kai Lenny
Publisher Rizzoli Publications
Total Pages 306
Release 2021-10-26
Genre Sports & Recreation
ISBN 0847870855

Download Big Wave Surfer Book in PDF, Epub and Kindle

A jaw-dropping photographic display of the world of big wave surfing, featuring the biggest and most dangerous waves and the legendary men and women who risk their lives to surf them. Over the last decade, a handful of surfers have been progressing the sport of big wave surfing to new extremes. Kai Lenny, one of the preeminent big wave surfers, offers readers a glimpse into this world. Lenny shares his personal stories and perspectives, and invites over 30 elite surfers—from legends who pioneered the way, to young guns who are the future of the sport—to contribute personal tales of the greatest waves ever ridden. These are the stories we’ve been waiting for: Shane Dorian pushing the boundaries in the gladiator arena of Pe‘ahi (Jaws), Maui; Peter Mel on riding the greatest wave ever caught at Mavericks, California; Keala Kennelly breaking the women’s glass ceiling at the death-defying slabs of Teahupoo, Tahiti; Kai Lenny and Lucas Chumbo’s groundbreaking wins at the incredible Nazaré, Portugal; Brett Lickle’s epic incident at the mystical Pyramids with Laird Hamilton, and many more. Accompanying stunning photographs from the world’s top surf photographers capture the drama of life and death, and the unwavering commitment of these brave extreme athletes.

Sarah and the Big Wave

Sarah and the Big Wave
Title Sarah and the Big Wave PDF eBook
Author Bonnie Tsui
Publisher Henry Holt and Company (BYR)
Total Pages 19
Release 2021-05-11
Genre Juvenile Nonfiction
ISBN 1250840430

Download Sarah and the Big Wave Book in PDF, Epub and Kindle

This stunning nonfiction picture book tells the inspiring story of Sarah Gerhardt, one of the first female big-wave surfers. Have you ever seen a big wave? One that’s twenty, thirty, forty, even fifty feet tall? Here’s a better question: Would you ever surf a big wave? Sarah Gerhardt did—and this is her story. Sarah and the Big Wave, a tale of perseverance and indomitable spirit, is about the first woman to ride the waves at Mavericks, one of the biggest and most dangerous surf breaks in the world.

Waking Up in the Sea

Waking Up in the Sea
Title Waking Up in the Sea PDF eBook
Author Derek Dunfee
Publisher
Total Pages
Release 2021-04-13
Genre
ISBN 9780578905457

Download Waking Up in the Sea Book in PDF, Epub and Kindle

WAKING UP IN THE SEABy Derek DunfeeFormat: HardcoverTrim Size: 8.5 x 11308pgs.Professional big wave surfer/ Photographer/ AuthorI go into detail about surfing and chasing big waves around the world, I also open up about how the concussions and trauma I suffered from big wave surfing impacts me everyday. You'll have a better understanding of why I don't surf big waves any more. I've never told this particular story and I'm excited to share.

The Big Drop

The Big Drop
Title The Big Drop PDF eBook
Author John Long
Publisher Falcon Guides
Total Pages 260
Release 1999
Genre Surfers
ISBN 9781560449171

Download The Big Drop Book in PDF, Epub and Kindle

A classic collection of big wave surfing stories that heralded a new era in surfing literature--32 tantalizing and terrifying true tales from the sport's pioneers

North Shore Chronicles

North Shore Chronicles
Title North Shore Chronicles PDF eBook
Author Bruce Jenkins
Publisher Frog Books
Total Pages 284
Release 2005-08-05
Genre Sports & Recreation
ISBN 9781583941249

Download North Shore Chronicles Book in PDF, Epub and Kindle

In this memorable account of 17 trips he made to Hawaii's North Shore starting in 1974, Bruce Jenkins, considered the Kerouac of surf writers, profiles the area's elite, the superstars who live to conquer Hawaii's deadliest waves. Here are the egoists, stylists, gladiators, and purists of the sport, from big-wave greats Darrick Doerner and Mark Foo to bodysurfer Mark Cunningham and bodyboarder Mike Stewart. Features 77 color photos.

Maverick's

Maverick's
Title Maverick's PDF eBook
Author Matt Warshaw
Publisher Chronicle Books
Total Pages 272
Release 2003-10-09
Genre Sports & Recreation
ISBN 9780811841597

Download Maverick's Book in PDF, Epub and Kindle

With its massive faces, punishing rocks, and treacherous currents, Maverick's presents a surfing challenge like no other. Author Matt Warshaw has updated his critically acclaimed illustrated history of Maverick's to cover important recent developments, and we've added a fresh new cover to kick this edition off in style. "A fascinating account," to quote Surfer magazine, it takes "a cue from Sebastian Junger's The Perfect Storm...Warshaw focused on a single event...and expands on it to illuminate an entire culture and its world beyond waves." The event was the death of celebrated surfer Mark Foo, one of those who congregate every winter to test themselves in the dark, foreboding waters. And what unfolds in Maverick's is no less than the story of big-wave surfing, from its ancient Hawaiian origins to modern tow-in riders. It's a book to be enjoyed not only by those who surf deep in the waves, but also by those whose taste for adventure is satisfied deep in the pages of a very good book.

The Finest Line

The Finest Line
Title The Finest Line PDF eBook
Author Rusty Long
Publisher Insight Editions
Total Pages 0
Release 2015-04-14
Genre Sports & Recreation
ISBN 9781608874095

Download The Finest Line Book in PDF, Epub and Kindle

The Finest Line explores the world of big-wave surfing and it’s dynamic evolution. Through images of hallmark days from the best big-wave locations around the world, firsthand accounts from those who dedicate their lives to chasing and riding giant waves, and expert commentary about the treacherous characteristics of each location, The Finest Line offers an unprecedented glimpse into the psychology of big-wave surfing, as well as its extreme risks and unparalleled rewards. Big-wave surfing has long been a part of the sport, but this subculture of the surf world is now moving out of the fringes. The current generation of surfers is continually reinventing the limits, making this the most advanced, dynamic, and exciting period in big-wave surfing history. This stunning coffee table book captures the essence of the sport through breathtaking images and stories, as well as exclusive interviews with the surfers who play the starring roles during these rare, large-swell events. Here you discover the complex logistics behind staging missions to the Cortes Bank, a phantom reef 100 miles out to sea; the mental and physical regimens of surfers such as Shane Dorian, Greg Long, and Grant “Twiggy” Baker; the psychology of living in pursuit of the world’s meanest waves; the stories behind the paddle-in renaissance that has come to define the next level of big-wave surfing; and firsthand accounts of those now-rare “tow-only” days that captivate audiences worldwide. More than a collection of big-wave photographs, The Finest Line covers the giant, hallmark sessions from the most impressive spots around the globe, capturing the international flavor of the sport and exploring the insatiable drive of a rare breed of thrill seekers.