A collection of traditional eighteenth and nineteenth century weaving drafts, written sequences of the threading order on the loom used to create specific patterns. They are presented here in their original form as gathered by Frances L. Goodrich and illustrated in over 160 color photos. This volume also contains over 200 valuable modern translations of the same drafts for use by today's weavers. In 1890, Frances L. Goodrich came to the southern mountains in North Carolina from a life of culture to live and work among people who had little opportunity for education or social enrichment. Through her work for the Presbyterian Home Mission Board, she grew to love and respect these neighbors who worked so hard and had so little. She established schools, a small hospital, and the Allanstand Cottage Industries. As she traveled the mountain roads and trails on horseback, Miss Goodrich collected these precious weaving drafts from the women who wove for Allanstand Cottage Industries. In your hands is the heart of that collection.

This collection of nineteenth- and early twentieth-century weaving drafts from the Southern Highlands region of Appalachia includes 112 overshot drafts and drawdowns, and 31 drafts and drawdowns for the all-white summertime cotton bedspreads called counterpanes. Color photos of the original samples are shown side by side with valuable modern translations of the drafts, which enable today's weavers to make them. A vibrant example of our weaving heritage, these drafts were originally gathered in the nine states of the Southern Highlands region between 1892 and 1918 by the legendary Frances L. Goodrich. Handwoven counterpanes and coverlets were important possessions, and often were the only item of beauty in the women's otherwise impoverished living conditions. These are drafts Goodrich carefully collected but did not include in her classic Brown Book. Dozens of vintage photographs of Goodrich, the communities she served, and the women who invented the drafts help bring this part of our American craft heritage to life.

The Southern Highland Craft Guild is the oldest craft guild in the United States and the only guild to be defined by a geographical area. First conceived by Olive Dame Campbell in the 1920s, the craft guild was launched in 1930 with an exhibition of regional arts. Frances Louisa Goodrich contributed her Allanstand Shop so that families living in an already depressed region would have a sales venue for their work throughout the Great Depression and the years of World War II. From that early start, the Southern Highland Craft Guild has grown to nearly a thousand members and has established a worldwide reputation for fine workmanship. The guild is governed by the artist membership, which is made up of a wide range of craftspeople from institute-trained artists to local makers trained by parents and friends.

Woven coverlets have appeared in several guises within the history of folk textiles. Created on four-harness looms, coverlets made in the nineteenth-century American South typically featured colored wool and cotton threads woven into striking geometric patterns. Although they are not as well known as other textiles and domestic objects, “overshot” coverlets were, and continue to be, significant examples of material culture that require tremendous skill and creativity to produce. They also express currents of conformity and dissent. In addition to being pleasing to the eye and hand, “overshot” coverlets have advanced a variety of social and political ends. At times exhibited in slave quarters along the seaboard in Georgia and South Carolina in association with plantation properties, they also appear in piedmont areas attached to the antebellum yeomanry, in the context of nationalist craft revivals, and in white-box contemporary art. With Overshot, Susan Falls and Jessica R. Smith analyze what we can learn by examining the exhibition and interpretation of these materials within American public history. By showing how geometric overshot coverlets can be understood in relationship to the global economy and within politicized cultural movements, Falls and Smith demonstrate how these erstwhile domestic, utilitarian objects explode the art/craft dichotomy, belong to a rich narrative of historical art forms, and tell us far more about American culture today than simply representing a nostalgic past, particularly with regard to ideas about race, class, nationalism, women’s labor, and the separation of private versus public spaces.

This book features the original sample collection and handwritten drafts of the talented, early 20th century weaver, Bertha Gray Hayes of Providence, Rhode Island. She designed and wove miniature overshot patterns for four-harness looms that are creative and unique. The book contains color reproductions of 72 original sample cards and 20 recently discovered patterns, many shown with a picture of the woven sample, and each with computer-generated drawdowns and drafting patterns. Her designs are unique in their asymmetry and personal in her use of name drafting to create the designs. Bertha Hayes attended the first nine National Conferences of American Handweavers (1938-1946). She learned to weave by herself through the Shuttle-Craft home course and was a charter member of the Shuttle-Craft Guild, and authored articles on weaving.

“Mountain Homespun will be of special interest to those studying southern Appalachian handicrafts, the 1890s handicraft revival, and northern Protestant missionary work in turn-of-the-century Appalachia.” —North Carolina Historical Review “Mountain Homespun is much more than a memoir. It offers unrivaled specific information on the processes of mountain crafts—not only on weaving, spinning, and dyeing, the author’s primary interest, but also on basketry, quilting, and other pursuits. All in all, the book is an important publishing event.” —Berea College Newsletter “This is a wonderful book. It belongs at the bedside of every spinner and weaver everywhere.” —Jude Daurelle, Handwoven