Describes the strategies and technologies that have propelled Japan to the forefront of apparel textile innovation. Practically every facet of the industry is covered -- from technological advances in fiber and yarn mfg., fabric making, apparel design and prod., and the development of related equip. to the economics of offshore production and the role of gov't. Presents an overview of the bus. environment and a perspective on the potential impact of offshore moves on the future; and attempts to predict the focus of research on the future and the effects of an increasingly cost-conscious domestic consumer and overseas mfg. operations. Tables, diagrams and photos.

Most of Japan's leading textile firms date back to the turn of the century. Unlike many of their Western competitors, however, Japan's larger companies have survived the "decline" of a sector consumed by fierce international competition. Providing the fullest English-language account of Japanese textiles, Dennis L. McNamara explores the entire sweep of the industry, from factory to high-fashion brokerage to policymaking circle. Tracing the strategies by which the textile industry has survived, he provides a distinctive view of Japanese capitalism in a climate of change. McNamara reconstructs a world riven by the competing interests of state and capital, firm and industry, labor and management, mill and merchant. We encounter giant "mogul" companies and upstart independent "mavericks"—such firms as Toray, Toyobo, Itochu, Tsuzuki, Kondobo, Onward, and Renown—all hustling to restructure for survival. Drawing on extensive interview data as well as recent Japanese and English-language work in political economy and social anthropology, McNamara describes a dynamic of competition between moguls and mavericks in a turbulent business torn by divisions but bound together by compromise. He finds that, despite enormous international pressures, the industry has maintained much of its market share, largely because state bureaucrats and leaders of major firms have managed to create a cooperative politics of adjustment. A corporatist structuring of interests, he concludes, has helped to moderate decline and maintain stability, permitting survival among the moguls without preventing the successful participation of mavericks.