This book places research into worldwide beach environments in its geomorphological context. Having introduced the systems approach to environmental modelling, and identified the groups of processes operating on beaches, the text is structured in five parts: the first three sections provide a sequential account of the effects of these processes on the beach system; part four focuses on theory relevant to landform stability, then reviews existing empirical, analytical and numerical models; and the final section introduces a computer model and shows its application to the process functions developed earlier.

Water waves are one of the principal causes of shoreline changes. When waves break along the shore, they release their energy and momentum and give rise to a longshore current. The longshore current, along with the stirring action of the waves, is the primary mechanism for longshore sediment transport. The longshore sand transport rate is an essential factor determining erosion or accretion along a coast. If the longshore sand transport rate can be accurately estimated, a quantitative picture of shoreline evolution can be evaluated, including changes of the shoreline due to marine structures. In the present study, analytical and numerical models are developed based on a longshore current model for random waves and a sediment transport formulation by Thornton to predict the cross-shore sediment transport distribution and to compute the total volume of sand transport rate. The model is compared with the field data acquired from Leadbetter Beach, Santa Barbara, California.

This book treats the subject of sediment transport in the marine environment, covering transport of noncohesive sediment by waves and currents in- and outside the surf zone. It can be read independently, but a background in hydraulics and basic wave mechanics is required. The primary aim of the book is to describe the physical processes of sediment transport and how to represent them in mathematical models. The book can be divided in two main parts; in the first, the relevant hydrodynamic theory is described. This part contains a review of elementary theory for water waves, chapters on the turbulent wave boundary layer and the turbulent interaction between waves and currents, and finally, surf zone hydrodynamics and wave driven currents. The second part covers sediment transport and morphological development.The part on sediment transport introduces the basic concepts (critical bed shear stress, bed load, suspended load and sheet layer, near-bed concentration, effect of sloping bed); it treats suspended sediment in waves and current and in the surf zone, and current and wave-generated bed forms. Finally, the modelling of cross-shore and long-shore sediment transport is described together with the development of coastal profiles and coastlines.

Local down- drift profile changes were found to be poor indicators of the local updrift impoundment. In general, the longshore transport profiles were found to be bimodal with peaks just landward of the breakpoint and near the shoreline; the relative significance of the longshore transport shifted from the near-breakpoint peak to the near-shoreline peak as the wave condition varied from spilling to collapsing breakers. Alternately stated, the longshore transport distribution appeared strongly beach profile dependent, as transport was most pronounced over local regions of high bed steepness. Between 10% and 30% of the total longshore transport was observed seaward of the breakpoint for all cases. Long- shore transport in the swash zone represented at least 5% to 60% of the total transport, where the largest swash contributions were associated with plunging/collapsing and collapsing surf conditions.

This bibliography supersedes the Bibliography of Publications of the Coastal Engineering Research Center and the Beach Erosion Board by Andre Szuwalski and Linda Clark, dated December 1981. It is a listing of publications issued by the Coastal Engineering Research Center (CERC) and its predecessor, the Beach Erosion Board, before 1 July 1983, when CERC became part of the U.S. Army Engineer Waterways Experimental Station. All CERC publications issued after that date are listed in the List of Publications of the U.S. Army Engineer Waterways Experiment Station.