Intended for coastal engineers and marine scientists who desire to develop a fundamental physical understanding of ocean waves and be able to apply this knowledge to ocean and coastal analysis and design. Provides an introduction to the physical processes of ocean wave mechanics, an understanding of the basic techniques for wave analysis, techniques for practical calculation and prediction of waves and applied wave forecasting.

In a unitary way, this monograph deals with a wide range of subjects related to the mechanics of sea waves. The book highlights recent theoretical results on the dynamics of random wind-generated waves, on long-term wave statistics, and on beach planform evolution. A fresh approach is given to more traditional concepts. For example, new evidence from a recent series of small-scale field experiments is used to introduce some crucial topics like wave forces. Also, the book gives some worked examples for the design of offshore or coastal structures. An exciting subject dealt with in the book is the quasi-deterministic mechanics of three-dimensional wave groups in sea storms, and the loads exerted by these wave groups on offshore structures. The text is intended for researchers and graduate students in ocean engineering, but may also be understood by undergraduates. The more complex concepts are explained with examples or more extensive case studies.

An introduction to classical water wave theory for college seniors or first-year graduate students. Almost all the necessary mathematical and engineering concepts are either presented or derived in the text, making it also useful as a reference for practicing engineers. Paper edition (0421-3), $28. Acidic paper. Annotation copyrighted by Book News, Inc., Portland, OR

This book is intended as an introduction to classical water wave theory for the college senior or first year graduate student. The material is self-contained; almost all mathematical and engineering concepts are presented or derived in the text, thus making the book accessible to practicing engineers as well.The book commences with a review of fluid mechanics and basic vector concepts. The formulation and solution of the governing boundary value problem for small amplitude waves are developed and the kinematic and pressure fields for short and long waves are explored. The transformation of waves due to variations in depth and their interactions with structures are derived. Wavemaker theories and the statistics of ocean waves are reviewed. The application of the water particle motions and pressure fields are applied to the calculation of wave forces on small and large objects. Extension of the linear theory results to several nonlinear wave properties is presented. Each chapter concludes with a set of homework problems exercising and sometimes extending the material presented in the chapter. An appendix provides a description of nine experiments which can be performed, with little additional equipment, in most wave tank facilities.

This is a textbook aimed at graduate students and offshore engineering practitioners that covers basic fluid mechanics and the deterministic and statistical descriptions of infinitesimal and finite amplitude water waves. It reviews the theory of wave loading on structures and closes with a chapter on the potential of ocean wave energy and devices for extracting it. Since the 1980s there has been tremendous progress in numerical and physical modelling of coastal and offshore structures in waves. This calls for a clear understanding of the phenomena of wave generation, propagation, deformation and its effects on marine structures. This book will help the reader to understand the many results and descriptions found in journals, reports and research papers. It is self-contained, and encompasses the fundamentals of the subject with sufficient description and illustrations.

Wave Mechanics and Wave Loads on Marine Structures provides a new perspective on the calculation of wave forces on ocean structures, unifying the deterministic and probabilistic approaches to wave theory and combining the methods used in field and experimental measurement. Presenting his quasi-determinism (QD) theory and approach of using small-scale field experiments (SSFEs), author Paolo Boccotti simplifies the findings and techniques honed in his ground-breaking work to provide engineers and researchers with practical new methods of analysis. Including numerous worked examples and case studies, Wave Mechanics and Wave Loads on Marine Structures also discusses and provides useful FORTRAN programs, including a subroutine for calculating particle velocity and acceleration in wave groups, and programs for calculating wave loads on several kinds of structures. Solves the conceptual separation of deterministic and stochastic approaches to wave theory seen in other resources through the application of quasi-determinism (QD) theory Combines the distinct experimental activities of field measurements and wave tank experiment using small-scale field experiments (SSFEs) Simplifies and applies the ground-breaking work and techniques of this leading expert in wave theory and marine construction