The Origins of Italian Fashion examines the history of Italian fashion from the beginning of the twentieth century, when the Lombard tailor Rosa Genoni created the first Italian fashion house independent from the prevailing French style, to World War II, when the Fascist regime co-opted fashion as a propaganda tool. Illustrated with archive material from the designers and the earliest Italian fashion magazines, this book concentrates on the most important designers from the early years of Italian fashion. From Gabriella di Robilant, the Italian 'inventor' of sportswear fashion, to Salvatore Ferragamo and his famous orthopaedic shoes, to Elsa Schiaparelli, the first great protagonist of Italian style, these designers' influence continues to be felt today.

In the course of the twentieth century, Italy succeeded in establishing itself as one of the world's preeminent fashion capitals, despite the centuries-old predominance of Paris and London. This book traces the story of how this came to be, guiding readers through the major cultural and economic revolutions of twentieth-century Italy and how they shaped the consumption practices and material lives of everyday Italians. In order to understand the specific character of the “Italian model,” Emanuela Scarpellini considers not only aspects of craftsmanship, industrial production and the evolution of styles, but also the economic and cultural changes that have radically transformed Italy and the international scene within a few decades: the post-war economic miracle, the youth revolution, the consumerism of the 1980s, globalization, the environmentalism of the 2000s and the Italy of today. Written in a lively style, full of references to cinema, literature, art and the world of media, this work offers the first comprehensive overview of a phenomenon that has profoundly shaped recent Italian history.

This title showcases the fashions that turned 'Made in Italy' into an internationally recognised mark of style. It brings together stunning fashion photography, archival material, and previously unseen objects from private collections to explore Italian style from the post-war couturiers of the 'Sala Bianca' to the outstanding success of its ready-to-wear brands.

In the first book to examine the role played by textile manufacturing in the development of fashion in Italy, A New History of 'Made in Italy' investigates Italy's transition from a country of dressmakers, tailors and small-scale couturiers in the early post-Second World War period to a major producer of ready-to-wear fashion in the 1980s. It takes the reader from Italy's first internationally attended fashion show in 1951 to Time magazine's Giorgio Armani April 1982 cover story, which signalled the fashion designer's international arrival, and Milan's presence as the capital of ready-to-wear. Chapters focus for the first time on the material substance of Italian fashion – textile – looking at questions including the importance of manufacturing quality, design innovation, composition, production techniques, commerce and the role of textile on the country's overall fashion system. Through these, Lucia Savi brings to light the importance of synthetic fibres, previously little-known players, such as the carnettisti (a type of textile wholesalers) as well as re-investigating well-known couturiers and designers such as Simonetta, Gianfranco Ferré and Gianni Versace. By looking at how things are made, by whom, and where, this book seeks to unpack the 'Made in Italy' label through a focus on making. Informed by extensive archival materials retrieved from a wide range of sources, it brings together the often-separated disciplines of fashion, textile and design history.

This is the first book written about Maria Monaci Gallenga (1880-1944), the enigmatic fashion artist and designer marginalized after decades of fortune and fame. The daughter of Ernesto Monaci, the illustrious philologist and mentor of Luigi Pirandello, Gallenga was the wife of Pietro Gallenga, a medical scientist related to the Gallenga Stuart family. The text outlines Maria Monaci Gallenga’s impact on the world of fashion, contextualizing her work and that of other forgotten fashion designers in the 1920s and 1930s. It sheds light on her cultural impact and idealism as a business entrepreneur in Europe and America promoting Italian art and culture. It also highlights her engagement in social and educational activities after she retired from the world of fashion, and explains the reasons behind her marginalization and disappearance, and the obstacles and constraints she faced during the years of Fascism. The book also considers the influence of the British arts and crafts movement and the vision of the Pre-Raphaelite Brotherhood on her aesthetic vision, and, in turn, investigates Maria Gallenga’s influence on late Pre-Raphaelite paintings (Frank Cadogan Cowper) inspired by her designs and fabrics. The discovery of her fabrics and accessories by the Fendi sisters in the collections of the Tirelli House eventually sparked a new interest in her models, now enhanced by digital media.

A luxuriously illustrated book that captures the evolution of the venerable fashion brand Luisa Spagnoli over the past century. A must-have book for all lovers of Italian style and fashion. For decades, Luisa Spagnoli has represented a confident, feminine woman, whose elegance is both modern and sophisticated--a style that is beloved by women of all ages, based on quality tailoring and must-have pieces. This book presents the development of the Luisa Spagnoli style through her signature accessories and iconic garments, with vintage and contemporary illustrations, sketches, drawings, and never-before-seen material from the extensive company archives. It pays tribute to the enterprising spirit of Luisa, who--after founding the chocolatier Perugina and its hallmark Baci--transformed her hobby of knitting with angora wool into a women's clothing and accessories brand, which now boasts 170 outlets around the world. Luisa Spagnoli's brand was popular with Hollywood stars working in Rome, such as Esther Williams and Lana Turner, and Italian actresses, such as Sophia Loren and Anna Magnani. The Duchess of Cambridge Kate Middleton is also often photographed wearing Luisa Spagnoli creations. Based on an ethical work plan, business acumen, the ability to evolve over time, and a pioneering approach to marketing, Luisa Spagnoli is a unique figure on the Italian fashion scene that is celebrating 90 years of success.

Over the last 180 years designers have propelled fashion from an elite craft into a cornerstone of popular culture. This brilliantly written guide to the lives and collections of 55 iconic fashion designers draws on the latest academic research and the best of fashion journalism, including the authors' own interviews with designers. Beginning with 19th century couturier Charles Frederick Worth and concluding with the star names of the 2010s, Polan and Tredre detail each designer's working methods and career highlights to capture the spirit of their times. This beautifully illustrated revised edition features five new designer profiles: Hedi Slimane, Raf Simons, Phoebe Philo, Alessandro Michele and Demna Gvasalia. It's also been updated throughout to reflect a fashion world in constant ferment, with designers swapping jobs and fashion houses at unprecedented speed. The industry has expanded into a global phenomenon - and designers have emerged as true celebrities; The Great Fashion Designers explores their passion and flair to show us fashion at its most inspirational.